We had coffee at the hostel then drove to the airport. We were about 2.5 hours early but Mom really wanted to get going. So, we got up and went. Then, we waited. The young fellow who had checked us in told Mom that we would be boarding the plane at 9:45am. A plane boarded at 9:45am but it had a different flight number and gate. Mom was sure it was our plane and started to worry that we’d miss our plane so I encouraged her to go and ask an Air New Zealand representative. She came back and informed me that it wasn’t our plane.
The flight from Napier to Wellington took 45 minutes. We arrived just before noon so the first order of business was to find a place to eat. We ended up buying sandwiches at a coffee shop called Fuel and eating our lunch in the hall outside Gate 10.
The flight from Wellington to Christchurch was on a huge Boeing 737. I was marvelling at the number of people travelling on the plane when I realized it was Saturday and people were probably visiting or going on a short weekend getaway.
After we collected our luggage in Christchurch we caught a shuttle to the hostel, where – sigh – I learned that our room was on the second floor. No elevators, just two flights of stairs. So, I sucked it up and carried our two large cases (70 pounds each) up to the room. Then I went downstairs and carried our two small cases (15 pounds each) up to the room. Mom carried my laptop and her backpack.
We left the hostel immediately and walked to Cathedral Square. There was a big celebration of Buddha’s Light Day in the square. There was a giant Buddha statue surrounded by bowls of sand in which devout Buddhists could light sticks of incense. There were other tables set up with bowls of water, but I wasn’t sure how those would be used.
Buddha's Light Day banners and Buddha statue:
There was also a stage where people were performing to ear-splittingly loud music. Next to the stage were a row of tables for the distribution of educational materials. Directly opposite was a long row of cooking tents where people were enjoying a variety of vegetarian dishes.
Toward the back corner of the square was a small collection of hawker’s tents. I was drawn to the tents in which people were selling jewellery. In one tent I was considering buying a ring when the hawker asked about the fish hook necklace I was wearing. I told him that I bought it in Rotorua from a Maori-run artists collective. He told me there was a Maori artist a couple of blocks down the road who had good work. We thanked him and hared off in that direction.
We thought we had missed the shop because we had walked about four blocks and not seen a single store selling jewellery. We agreed that we were going to cross the road to the Art Gallery then turn around and head back to Cathedral Square. I noticed that there was a smaller group of hawkers set up at the Art Gallery. Then I noticed a sign that said “Maori Art and Jewellery”. Bingo!
We walked down a series of twisty hallways, past a lawyer’s office, an architect’s office, and an Internet café. The store was the located at the end of the hall in a small room, which in all honesty was smaller than most people’s bathrooms. There were two other people there so we walked around them, admiring the work on the walls and on a few small tables.
I immediately noticed a fish hook necklace made of wood and bone, with waxed cotton whipping at the join between the wood and bone and at the eye of the hook. It was awesome, and it was only $45!
After the other people left the woman behind the counter greeted us warmly and asked where we were from. We didn’t stop talking for another 20 minutes. Fina explained that she collected the bone from the butcher, boiled it to clean off the meat and sinew, removed the marrow, and bleached the bone to make it white. Then she explained that she used a butcher’s band saw to cut leg bones in half so she could use each half for a different piece.
Me and Fina:
More importantly, she explained that it was important to start and finish each piece in a day. Maori artists don’t like to leave work unfinished and will work long hours to finish their work in a day. Fina also mentioned that, traditionally, Maori men did all of the carving but she and many other women had started carving in recent years. Women still can’t carve waka (canoes) but there is increasing acceptance of women carving tikis, fish hooks, and other art works.
We talked about a lot of other things, but eventually said goodbye. I asked the shop address so I could send her some examples of west coast First Nations art. I also promised to send a photo of Fina and I that Mom took.
After visiting with Fina we walked back toward Cathedral Square. I noticed a sign “Punting on the Avon”, something I’d hoped to do while in Christchurch. Unfortunately there was a long line-up and the day was almost over. Instead, we chose to take a ride on the restored tramway. It was quite pleasant and I really enjoyed the architecture along the route.
The Avon River:
The tram:
Actually, I’m enjoying the architecture in Christchurch more than that architecture in Napier. I’m just not a big Art Deco fan, I guess. I much prefer old brick buildings from the late 1800s, like the ones in Christchurch.
After the tram ride we walked back toward the hostel and had a magnificent dinner at a Thai restaurant located a block away from the hostel. Mom was a bit concerned because no one was in the restaurant when we entered, but was soon reassured by the huge number of people coming by to pick up food that they had ordered over the phone. We had spring rolls, pad thai and a yummy red curry.
During dinner I noticed a whole crowd of teenagers gathering across the street. They couldn’t be any older than 16 and it looked like they were lining up to get into a bar. I was starting to wonder about the drinking age in New Zealand when they all dashed up the alley. I still have no idea what they were waiting for.
Just having a quiet night in because we have to depart at 7:15am to catch the train across the Southern Alps to Greymouth. I love trains, and I especially love trains that travel over trestle bridges, through tunnels, and across stunning landscapes. It should be a good day tomorrow!
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