8am Tuesday, April 4, 2006 Rotorua

The spa was truly fantastic. We soaked in lakeside mineral pools that ranged in temperature from 36 to 42 C. The pools were man-made, of course, but there were mineral deposits building up on the rocks and the deposits made the pools look more natural. The pools were surrounded by lush native ferns and trees, which added some privacy but also emitted the most relaxing sounds as the wind moved through the fronds and leaves.

After an hour’s soak both Mom and I were off to 30-minute treatments. Mom got an Aix water massage and I got a mud massage. We both felt fantastic afterwards. Unfortunately we had to pack up and head back to the hostel right away to meet the bus for the Tamaki Maori Village tour. Otherwise we would have spent another hour or so relaxing in the mineral pools.

The Tamaki Maori Village tour was really fun. Our driver, Wiremu, was really jovial and quite funny. For example: “You can photograph or record anything in the village, but I would strongly recommend that you save some frames for the end of the evening, when you will want to take a few photos of me.”

The tour started with a challenge by a group of five warriors. The challenge had to be accepted by our chiefs, elected from each bus. The oldest chief ended up accepting the challenge but bolloxed it up by not kneeling to accept the peace offering. After the challenge was the welcoming call, a beautiful keening song by the a female elder.

We were then welcome to enter the village, where we had an extremely brief tour of five cultural displays. By brief, I mean that by the time I saw one we were being ushered out of the village. There was another dance and song as we entered the meeting hall. In the meeting hall we sat and enjoyed a 20-minute performance, which included singing as well as the haka.

The haka:


By then we were all good and hungry, so it was a good thing that our next stop was the dining hall. The food was laid out buffet-style, but had been prepared in an earth stove or hangi pit lined with hot bricks and flax and covered with wet burlap sacks and sand. The food was simple but delicious. I tried kumara (sweet potatoes) for the first time, and polished off three slices of the delicious lamb.

After dinner we were invited to go outside where our driver Wiremu explained how the hangi pit was created and how the food was cooked inside the pit. Then we had about 10 minutes to lay down cash for necklaces, carvings, and t-shirts before we were ushered back into the dining hall for a final goodbye speech and song.

Wiremu explaining the hangi pit:


The best part of the evening, in my opinion, was the drive home. Wiremu made us sing songs from our home countries – the people from the US couldn’t think of one – then he got us singing “She’ll be comin’round the mountain” as he and another driver steered their two huge buses around a big roundabout several times. It was a complete hoot.

It was raining as we arrived back at the hostel and it looks like it rained all night. I had the best sleep, though. There’s something about the sound of the rain and the freshness of the air that puts me into a deep and satisfying slumber.

This morning we’ll head back to the spa to soak in the public pools (we have a free pass). We may stop at the Internet café again before departing for Ruatoria, where we’ll be staying with friends of Bruce’s.